Reusing passive speakers?

[Jasper]

Hi all

I have a set of passive speakers which are not being used ...... I lie that are being used to prop stuff up presently

I got rid of my amp years ago, but the speakers remained.

I wanted to know if anyone knows how I could connect them up so they could be functional once again?

I have looked on Amazon (UK) and seen small bluetooth amps eg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=amp+for+pa ... =nav_bb_sb

Has anyone had experience of this kind of setup?

Some pointers would be useful

The alternative is to donate them to my local charity shop.

Thanks!

[fr-ke]

Hi Jasper

not quite your setup.

I use a Logitech Bluetooth player for my amp and for small active speakers.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRCDT7Y

It is sent from a laptop about 2 to 4 meters away, rarely from a cell phone.

I mostly listen to radio shows with it. The connection is OK - no interruptions for me.

I can't say anything about the audio quality because my speakers are very cheap.
I read that the quality also depends on the supported Bluetooth standard of the transmitting device.
The amp certainly plays a big role too.

[rockedge]

I am looking for just such speakers! I would most likely get a mini or micro amplifier that connects to the computer audio card's Line Out port and connect the speakers to this amplifier. Pre-amp supplied by the audio card. Then run the computer's Line Out volume in an optimal range and let the amplifier to the most work driving those speakers. Would sound great. I do something similar now but with a cheap cheap computer desktop left-right-sub-woofer connected to the Line Out which has the amp built in...but it's cheap though performs well enough for Internet radio and playing audio files (bass loud enough the wife will complain....unless it's stuff from a musical).

I would really like to use an external vacuum tube amplifier with speakers equipped with high-mid-low range crossover electronics....get those warm deep bass sounds and mid-range with good treble response......a dream for someday......

[wizard]

Ah, yes in the olden days a good hifi system was a prized possession. Big speakers, big amps, big sound. I scratch my head that most music listeners today use smartphones, etc. for their music. They are missing most of the audio content.

At one point in the past I built custom speaker systems, what fun that was. My one real regret of getting older is the loss of my high frequency hearing.

wizard

[Grey]

I would really like to use an external vacuum tube amplifier with speakers equipped with high-mid-low range crossover electronics....get those warm deep bass sounds and mid-range with good treble response......a dream for someday......

In such a project, the main thing is to gather strength and desire. For example, I've had a small tube amplifier for headphones ready for about three years. But it seems that the sound card copes with pre-amplification, and in general there are other things to do... I'm not using it yet. Maybe someday

[gychang]

Hi all

I have a set of passive speakers which are not being used ...... I lie that are being used to prop stuff up presently
The alternative is to donate them to my local charity shop.

Thanks!

small efficient amps are great with old passive speakers. I had micca A250 amplfiier ($50) with my DIY speakers. Beautiful and clean sound. I personally would stay away from bluetooth devices...

micca.jpg (35.44 KiB) Viewed 3252 times

[Jasper]

Thank you all for your comments/suggestions/ideas

It has been a very long time since I dabbled with HiFi equipment so have forgotten a great deal.

From memory, I believe I had to get an amp that was more powerful than the speakers. The last one I had was a NAD amplifier.

Now, that might not be so important as the days of me playing loud music are most probably behind me ......more importantly I think my neighbours would not be too happy given the choice of music I listen to

So, I could downgrade the capabilities of the amplifier as it might only be played at lower settings.

It's a consideration at this point!!

I had thought of a bluetooth amplifier as it would be more compact and would allow me/guests to connect to the device to play back music. Also, it appears to be a more compact solution.

I had looked at purchasing a proper amplifier and due to the revival in vinyl records the costs of these are quite steep. I guess I could try a pre-owned one. Again the size is a little off putting.

Also, I am guessing that I would need to use Banana Plugs to connect the speakers to a modern amp as these appear really to be designed for passive speakers.

Thank you for the comment re: Bluetooth versions.

I would primarily using 5.0, A2DP, LE

[Jasper]

@Grey

Do not sit on the amplifier, use it

It's the start of spring here, so not point hoarding items

[Grey]

Here are the speakers in question:

I wonder when these speakers were produced. The new ones are usually indicated: Designed & Developed in Somewhere in Europe. Made in China. Perhaps these are the speakers of the time when not everything was too neglected

[gychang]

@Jasper Micca A250 is tiny 5.63 x 3.23 x 1.26" and powerful. Don't need banana plugs, bare wire worked fine (even to your speaker). I considered Fosi for $10 more, with significantly more power.

fosi.jpg (151.87 KiB) Viewed 3213 times

[wizard]

@Jasper

From memory, I believe I had to get an amp that was more powerful than the speakers.

Your memory is wrong. Unless your speakers are terribly inefficient or you intend on listening at very loud levels, an amp with 5-10 watts RMS per channel will work just fine. The average listening level on average speakers is about 2-4 watts.

The best human hearing is from 20-20000hz, the worst problem is if you are male and over 60 you may not be able to hear high frequencies above 4000-6000hz. This doesn't mean music won't sound good, just that the sounds, overtones and harmonics that add "character" will be missing.

wizard

[fr-ke]

@Jasper If the source should also be a cell phone, then it will be more in the direction of a Bluetooth amp.

A while ago I started using a laptop as an audio source and noticed that the built-in sound cards didn't sound that great. I then used an external D/A converter. a Fostex PC-100USB-HR2.
The sound was significantly better, but it took me a long time to route the audio data digitally to the USB output.

[Grey]

and noticed that the built-in sound cards didn't sound that great.

The built-in sound card is only good for understanding that there is some kind of sound Except in some cases with good capacitors, when the motherboard model is initially designed for good sound.

Unless your speakers are terribly inefficient or you intend on listening at very loud levels, an amp with 5-10 watts RMS per channel will work just fine. The average listening level on average speakers is about 2-4 watts.

This is true. A friend of mine has long dreamed of a real cool 100(+)-watt amplifier. However, the neighbors failed to understand the aspirations of the soul And then the enthusiasm died down by itself, such capacities are needed only for small concert halls.

@Jasper If you have an apartment and not a private house, then it is better to spend money on GOOD headphones.

[Jasper]

@gychang

Thank you for your suggestions, I did look on Amazon UK and I can see that they do stock Fosi Audio components

If you have some spare time, can you recommend a model that would work with the specifications of my speakers.

Code: Select all

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=fOSI+Audio&crid=1C7Z7O2DF6JMY&sprefix=fosi+audio%2Caps%2C146&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

@Grey

I think speakers must be at least 20 years old ........... I do have some floor standing speakers (same brand Eltax ...... also made in Denmark) over a metre high which are still in storage

[gychang]

@gychang

Thank you for your suggestions, I did look on Amazon UK and I can see that they do stock Fosi Audio components

If you have some spare time, can you recommend a model that would work with the specifications of my speakers.

@Grey

I think speakers must be at least 20 years old ........... I do have some floor standing speakers (same brand Eltax ...... also made in Denmark) over a metre high which are still in storage

@Jasper Fosi pictured have more than enough power to drive almost all speakers ever made. Especially if u don't want to bother your neighbors...

@Grey generally speaking big cabinet speakers have higher sensitivity and may not require as much power as smaller bookshelf models. Speaking as a former diy speaker builder and amp maker...

[rockedge]

Eltax ...... also made in Denmark

excellent speakers I always thought...

@gychang I am going to buy a Micca A250 this week!!

[gychang]

Eltax ...... also made in Denmark

excellent speakers I always thought...

@gychang I am going to buy a Micca A250 this week!!

@rockedge will be looking forward to your ear drums opinion...

[Jasper]

The amp has turned up and I have got it wired up.

I choose a lower spec model (50w) as I wanted the Bluetooth connectivity.

I have attempted to pair the device with two mobile phones. They do pair however they drop out all the time so playback is interrupted.

So, I am using a 35mm cable to connect presently which does work.

Having chosen a less powerful amp the sound is low.

Turning up the volume, Bass & Treble does make the playback stutter.

I guess I should have stuck with the more powerful offering TDA498E and forgone the Bluetooth connectivity.

@rockedge

Let me know what your impressions are

@gychang

Thank you for your advice and suggestions, very appreciated

[mimine]

I use an old Kenwood A-47, what do you think of it ?

[geo_c]

The amp has turned up and I have got it wired up.

I choose a lower spec model (50w) as I wanted the Bluetooth connectivity.

I have attempted to pair the device with two mobile phones. They do pair however they drop out all the time so playback is interrupted.

So, I am using a 35mm cable to connect presently which does work.

Having chosen a less powerful amp the sound is low.

Turning up the volume, Bass & Treble does make the playback stutter.

I guess I should have stuck with the more powerful offering TDA498E and forgone the Bluetooth connectivity.

@rockedge

Let me know what your impressions are

@gychang

Thank you for your advice and suggestions, very appreciated

Sorry jumping into this late.

The reason more power from the amp is desirable goes beyond sheer volume. It takes more wattage output to produce very low and very high tones. So higher wattage will give a more faithful reproduction of the frequency spectrum on the recording.

The main thing about speakers and amps is the resistance rating. Your speakers are 8 ohms, so if that number is higher on the amp (16 ohms, rare though), and the amp is rated at 50 watts, the speakers are going to "suck" more wattage from the amp than was designed, basically meaning you have to run the amp at half it's normal volume control setting or risk blowing the amp. If the speakers are higher than the amp (say amp rated at 4 ohms) you can run the volume control higher than you normally would, but might be pushing the speakers too hard and blow them. So the best is to have the resistance rating the same on the amp and speakers. You have peak wattage ratings on both, which means it's the highest they can handle in short bursts, and RMS ratings, which is their average load threshold. That's my understanding, but I might be off a bit.

Basically with a good pair of old speakers like you have, any decent reference amplifier will do the job, like this: https://www.zzounds.com/item--HAFTA1600 and then question becomes connecting your sources to it, in the case of the laptop a headphone/line output will work, but then you'e limited to the quality of the preamp in that circuit, and adapter chords to match output of source to input of amp. Bluetooth solves that problem, and allows you connect other devices to the amp.

But another solution is to get a usb audio interface and run a good set of cables to the amp. Something like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail ... -interface

Then it's a matter of the output cables being 1/4 shielded and matching that to the input cables of your current amp, which in your case now might be phono cables. Adapters work fine for that task, like these: https://musysic.com/products/rca-to-dua ... ble-3-feet

[williwaw]

Having chosen a less powerful amp the sound is low.

Turning up the volume, Bass & Treble does make the playback stutter.

you might be maxing out the transistor

[gychang]

I have attempted to pair the device with two mobile phones. They do pair however they drop out all the time so playback is interrupted.

Having chosen a less powerful amp the sound is low.

Turning up the volume, Bass & Treble does make the playback stutter.

I guess I should have stuck with the more powerful offering TDA498E and forgone the Bluetooth connectivity.

@Jasper my experience is similar, bluetooth amps aren't reliable with some puppies as of about 2 years ago... My setup is all hardwired.
Amp power rating does not affect overall volume. HIgher amp rating mainly gives a cleaner transient peaks of sound ("audio clipping"). Playback stutter is not due to an amplfier... For PC connected near field audio use, efficient new technology (class D amp) seems cost-efficient and not worry about amp power rating. Do you know the Symphony 4.3 sensitivity rating?

[torm]

Hi!

.. and the impressions?

I'm also looking around for smaller amp with 4 Ohm impedance and 2x10W RMS output
and about 10W power consumption. Skipped those without or a cardsize remote,
and then those with the external power supply..
The only extra feature would be FM radio with station memory. Maybe DAB, if avalable.
It should be able to memorize the output volume and the last used input, also
when disconnected from the mains.
No system fan on the backside..

Not interested in CD, DVD, USB, MicroSD, BlueTooth etc. functions.

For now settled with a so called micro-music-system, that has a fullsize remote,
FM radio, and reasonable power consumption including standby mode.
Using it for both TV and the computer sound, placed on top of 3-way boomboxes
from the early 90's.
Sound is way far better than with the original "shueboxes" that were shipped with
the system - notably at low volume and when using extra equalizer in computer programs.
The impedance doesn't match perfectly 6@8 Ohm, however I'm not driving it to the
edge - so it should not wear out the AC circuit I think.. or hope

There is also a pair of tiny 2-way speakers that may fit better on the desktop
around the display, however those have 4 Ohm impedance..
Nominal power handling is 150W RMS, pretty deep bass from that small size.
Those are left-over from Panasonic UX-100 system where I replaced original with
the heavy Sonab floorstanding speakers.

Would be great to put those to some use again...

PS.
I have noticed that the amps without AC input tend to need a kinda beefy AC/DC adapter.
Sometimes 3 to 5A for 5/12V and, probably with built-in noise filters.
This is where more often problems start, after the online shopping
Stutter could be that also..

[geo_c]

PS.
I have noticed that the amps without AC input tend to need a kinda beefy AC/DC adapter.
Sometimes 3 to 5A for 5/12V and, probably with built-in noise filters.
This is where more often problems start, after the online shopping
Stutter could be that also..

Yes, a good set of powered speakers should come with a power supply included. If they are used/aftermarket then it may be missing, and it's important that the power supply is correct.

[Geek3579]

Another option for a cheap amp with more features is the E-Lektron EL5-FB Stereo HiFi Class D Digital Amplifier, which also features Radio Bluetooth USB SD Karaoke with Remote. I think it has a 20W output and includes an FM radio (of sorts). It cost about $A105.

Interestingly, the D class amplifier design, which I think uses a MOSFET configuration in the output stages, is very efficient and generates very little heat. Its the same amp type used in mobile phones to minimize battery power usage. However, the preamps in the E-lectron leave a lot to be desired, so you need a higher level input signal.

[geo_c]

Interestingly, the D class amplifier design, which I think uses a MOSFET configuration in the output stages, is very efficient and generates very little heat. Its the same amp type used in mobile phones to minimize battery power usage. However, the preamps in the E-lectron leave a lot to be desired, so you need a higher level input signal.

Yes class D is the definitively modern approach to amplification, and allows for very small, lightweight, low power consumption and heat generation. I use a class D bass amplifier to play bass professionally. Saves a lot of back pain for me. However sound wise, after using it for three years it does have a certain sterile sensation to it. Yet playing music through an amp is a lot different than simply listening, Only audiophiles might care about the difference.

I recently found this article describing class A, class A/B, class D, and digital amplifiers, how they work. It's a great read, though slightly technical: https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articl ... tas-217-1/

I recently bought a Class-A Single Ended Tube Amplifier for playing guitar, the phono and microphone inputs converted to guitar inputs. It's amazing at 10watts, very loud but crystal clear and life-like. Built in 1957 it's MONO of course!

[rockedge]

@geo_c that amp is beyond cool.....would like to hear a ROLAND D-50 run through it.......

now I am thinking tube amp for a Mini-Moog

[geo_c]

@geo_c that amp is beyond cool.....would like to hear a ROLAND D-50 run through it.......

now I am thinking tube amp for a Mini-Moog

If you want a small, quiet low power tube amp for instruments, there are a lot on the market today, like these:
https://reverb.com/item/86342328-used-b ... inium-head
https://reverb.com/item/84232101-epipho ... unior-head

Of course those need a suitable speaker. And they are very low power, can't crank them very loud without going into overdriven tones. And built for guitar input, so the keyboard volume has to be down pretty low.
You could always go with a tube combo if you don't have a speaker cabinet:
https://reverb.com/item/82312543-bugera ... x8-speaker
https://reverb.com/item/83947044-fender ... r-m1651350

For heavy keys like a moog, a bass amp might be better, here's a nice converted Bogen Amp like I have, but push-pull with more defined control of the tone stack: https://reverb.com/item/86225346-bogen- ... rsion-1963

But what I'm curious to do is hook my Bogner Challenger pictured above up to one of my Klipsch Forte Speakers, which are very efficient speakers, so I can play my turntable though it. But I need to mix the stereo turntable output to mono first.